"Oh, the Brostiqo", moans longing , for three days to the man beside
me. "Oh, the Crazy Brostiqo"...
What caused this excitement is what is known to happen occasionally in restaurants: one special dish which conquers your senses and overshadows the rest of the dishes, those preceding and those which will follow, as good as they might be.
(You might wanna put: one special dish which conquers your senses and sets itself apart from the rest of the menu)
This "Crazy Brostiqo" came across us as part of a tasting meal in "Cordelia" - Chef Nir Zuk's new restaurant. And it appears that we aren’t the only ones falling for its magic: in a uniquely ever-changing menu, the “Crazy Brostigo” remains a constant.
A short explanation: Since the young chef believes in constant renewal, the menu transforms itself almost entirely each month, with most dishes stepping aside to make room for new arrivals. On the one hand, this means you won’t be coming back to your favorite dish time after time. On the flipside, this means that each and every visit holds the promise of a new surprise.
As we’re talking about one of the most creative chefs in Israel today, your meal will not resemble anything else you’ve tried before. Cautious diners can opt to build a custom meal from the a la carte menu,
but if you’ve gotten so far, our recommendation is to go all
the way by experiencing ‘degustation’, our tasting meal option. Diners will have three courses at their choosing: A starter, main course, and dessert, along with four standard dishes being served at 180 NIS per person.
The talked brostiqom (sp)? for example, which serves as
an appetizer, consists of finely sliced rare beef, pickled in balsamic dressing, spiced and garnished with thin slivers of pear, onion, radish (!) and a few other flavors we couldn't quite put our finger on, but which altogether made for an unforgettable dish.
Our other starter, Lemon Ravioli in a champagne sauce, was both innovative as well as super delicious. The menu indicates that this dish is usually served with shrimp, but we did just as well without.
- A lighter version of a dish usually served in a heavy butter and cream sauce.
Out of the main courses, the Corvina was especially tasty.
Fired to a crispy texture and topped with hot salad, the
unfamiliar dominant spice turns out to be grapevine leaves, otherwise known as s'hug (hot sauce).
Although the restaurant is defined as being "French cuisine
with a Mediterranean touch", anyone who knows Nir Zuk know to expect
a very personal interpretation. True, we did not like all the new changes, such as adding eucalyptus honey to the Jerusalem Artichoke Cream Soup or the generous spread of salt and pepper on the apple
sorbet. Still, we thoroughly enjoyed the Guava Schnitzel with Coconut Icecream, brought back to the menu by customer demand. Rightly enough, the hot-cold/crispy-smooth combination along with colorful tropical flavors make this a treat one can't refuse.
"The Chef's Range", a culinary project in Jaffa - also founded by Nir Zuk - includes a few entertainment options, all based on one kitchen sporting different menus, styles and moods.
"Cordelia" provides two separate dinner menus, as said before,
and also a special business lunch during weekdays (?).
Next door to Cordelia is "Noa Bistro", with an indoor garden, serving original bistro dishes all day in a light, airy atmosphere.
Also nearby is “Jaffa Bar", the newest of all the locations. Here, special gourmet dishes combined with alcohol and good music guarantee fickle diners another uniquely enjoyable culinary experience.
Cordelia, chef Nir Tzuk.
Simtat hazchuchit, Yefet corner. Tel-Aviv Jaffo.
972-3-5184668.
